The 2027 deadline to remove formaldehyde and formaldehyde-releasing agents from cosmetics is forcing US brands to reformulate their products or risk losing trust in the market.
Formaldehyde has been widely used in the industry for its cost-effectiveness and reliable results, particularly in keratin treatments that leave hair smooth and frizz-free. However, concerns about its toxic and cancer-causing properties have led to a push for change from both consumers and regulators.
The alternatives that formulators have tried so far have their own issues. Ingredients like glyoxylic acid, cysteine, and amino acid derivatives have concerns about their safety and effectiveness in hair straightening treatments.
Meanwhile, the market for keratin treatments is growing rapidly, with projections suggesting it will reach $3.7 billion by 2035. Haircare brands that want to capitalize on this growth are racing to develop compliant formaldehyde-free products, while competitors play catch-up.
A thorough analysis of patent data and research papers revealed a range of suitable formaldehyde alternatives in the haircare industry. These alternatives fulfill the regulatory requirements while offering formaldehyde-like functionality.
Companies Innovating With Formaldehyde-Free Alternatives for Hair Smoothing and Straightening
L’Oréal’s acyclic carbonate esters deliver frizz control even after multiple shampoo cycles
Hair gels and hair-smoothing products often contain formaldehyde-releasing preservatives such as imidazolidinyl urea and diazolidinyl urea. However, L’Oréal’s formaldehyde-free hair treatment composition uses acyclic carbonate esters, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, to reduce frizz and improve smoothness.
When heat is applied, these carbonate ester mimics a formaldehyde-like effect by reacting with the amine groups in the hair fibers. This reaction grafts fatty alkyl chains onto the hair or forms N, N′-disubstituted urea linkages with keratin. The treated hair retains desirable properties, such as reduced frizz and increased smoothness, even after multiple shampoo cycles.
To minimize heat-induced damage, the formulation also includes amino-functionalized silicones, which provide softness and a glossy finish.
In experiments, the carbonate ester-based composition and comparative formulations were tested on hair swatches. After shampooing with a commercial deep-cleansing shampoo, combing, and towel drying, a 10% concentration of dicaprylyl carbonate was found to react with hair proteins during flat-ironing. This achieved high ratings for smoothness (4–5/5) and frizz control (5/5), with solid performance (≥3/5) maintained after three shampoo cycles and exposure to humidity.
refers to the control formulation that doesn’t contain the acyclic carbonate esters
This is just one of L’Oréal’s innovations in haircare. The cosmetic leader is also exploring sensor-equipped brushes and combs and waterless lamellar phase styling compositions for frizz control. Keeping up with such R&D activities is key to maintaining the competitive edge. Stay one step ahead with proactive competitive research on our AI-based research tool, Slate. Just ask, “What are L’Oréal’s most recent R&D advancements or product innovations in haircare formulations and technologies?”
What are L'Oréal's most recent R&D advancements or product innovations in haircare formulations and technologies?
Curie Co.’s engineered TGase variants do not self-crosslink and have improved stability
Formaldehyde is widely used as a protein crosslinking agent because of its small size, high reactivity, and ability to form covalent bonds between amino acid residues.
Due to regulatory pressure, many formulators replaced formaldehyde with transglutaminase (Tgase) to crosslink substrates such as keratin and collagen in hair treatment formulations. However, Tgase’s instability in solution and its tendency to self-crosslink in its powdered form limit its effectiveness.
Curie Co., a bio-based ingredient manufacturer in North Carolina, overcame this limitation with an engineered Tgase variant. This new variant has fewer reactive glutamine and lysine residues, solving the self-crosslinking issue. When used in hair formulations, it can help form a semi-permanent film, reduce frizz, and enhance shine.
An experimental analysis was performed to evaluate the specific activity and stability of the developed Tgase variant. The commercial wild-type Tgase (Ajinomoto® Activa® TI formulation) was tested at 55 °C for comparison. The engineered Tgase demonstrated significantly higher specific activity in the hydroxamate assay, indicating its improved ability to catalyze acyl-transfer reactions. Moreover, it remained stable during heat treatments.
Additionally, tests on frizz reduction and hair color retention were conducted on swatched hair samples. The results showed that the developed Tgase variant reduced frizz and enhanced curl compared to water or protein-only controls. It exhibited lower dye loss and better shine even after 10 washes.
Curie has now commercialized this innovation under the name Curamina™. This product serves as a formaldehyde replacement and is non-irritating, USDA bio-preferred, and 100% biodegradable. It is an easy-to-use, aqueous formulation that forms new peptide bonds with collagen and keratin.
Companies Developing Formaldehyde-free Exfoliants and Solvents For Enhanced Compatibility With Hair Treatment Actives
Coast Southwest’s crystalline glycolic acid is a formaldehyde-free exfoliant
Glycolic acid is widely used in shampoos, scalp scrubs, conditioners, and serums to gently exfoliate the scalp, helping reduce dandruff and flakiness for healthier hair. However, traditional methods of producing glycolic acid, such as carbonylation of formaldehyde or enzymatic production from glycolonitrile, can leave residual traces of formaldehyde in the final product.
Ingredient distributor Coast Southwest is overcoming this challenge by using the crystalline form of glycolic acid, which is formaldehyde-free.
Additionally, traditional compositions struggle to combine chemical exfoliants such as glycolic acid with other beneficial skin or hair actives in a stable and effective manner.
However, Coast Southwest’s patented composition combines glycolic acid with maqui berry extract and other anthocyanin-rich actives to provide antioxidant, anti-redness, moisturizing, and protective effects.
The core innovation lies in the formaldehyde-free nature of the incorporated glycolic acid. It allows multiple active ingredients to be added in a single step or sub-phase. This ensures simplicity in formulation, cost-effective, large-scale production, increased cosmetic efficacy, and a synergistic effect.
The composition has a long shelf life and remains stable after exposure to heat, UV radiation, or gamma sterilization. It can be delivered in diverse formats, including serums, emulsions, creams, gels, and oils, which ensure multi-functional skincare/haircare in a single formulation.
To confirm safety, experimental analysis tested the glycolic acid for possible formaldehyde formation. Physical tests showed no formaldehyde at a detection limit of 5 ppm.
Coast Southwest distributes this glycolic acid under the trade name GlyAcid in an exclusive national distribution agreement with CrossChem.
P&G has developed a formaldehyde-free solvent system for photochromic hair dyes
Traditional hair dyes allow only a single color change. These dyes require reapplication or hair
regrowth for reversing color, limiting user convenience. While photochromic hair dyes offer
a reversible color change, they often rely on harmful solvents like formaldehyde or toluene.
P&G has filed a patent for photochromic hair dyes (p- and t-types) that enable dynamic, reversible hair color changes when exposed to electromagnetic radiation (EMR). The innovation addresses the poor solubility of p-type photochromic dyes by using safer solvents, such as coconut oil, isopropyl palmitate, polysorbate, or caprylic/capric triglyceride.
These ingredients are GRAS (Generally Regarded As Safe). They enable manufacturers to develop safe, formaldehyde-free haircare solutions that let users conveniently change their hair colour.
Conclusion
Legal experts note that regulatory attention is shifting from the food sector to personal care, with a growing emphasis on ingredient transparency, sustainable packaging, and full lifecycle compliance. Cosmetic companies must prepare for reformulation and relabeling to navigate these regulatory hurdles.
Uncovering the viable alternatives to formaldehyde is just the starting point. R&D teams will need a comprehensive evaluation of these alternatives, based on cost-effectiveness, scalability, and market applicability, to develop sustainable haircare solutions.
Our experts can curate a list of alternatives on various parameters, including geographical availability, supply chain stability, and regulatory clearances, to help you identify the most suitable solution. Fill out the form below and talk to our experts today.
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